RUNWAY

Cavalli goes Beatnik (kind of)

Luc Cormier

WORDS BY LUC CORMIER

Roberto Cavalli, helmed by Fausto Pauglisi, showed in Milan this past February. The sensual and hedonistic stylings of Cavalli are full of American flair with an Italian sensibility. 

 This collection was compelling; from a brand like Cavalli, seeing the majority of pieces in black stomp down the runway, the pops of fluorescent pink and purple floral provided shock amongst the lulls and comfort of the greyscale and black hue that coloured the collection.

The show opens strong; the first look punk and playful, bringing a modern take to a 50s American style- super edgy while still sexy. The embellished bra reads like zebra print, a smart integration of the brand's classic animal-print styles. 

The collection featured several paper-doll-esque A-line skirts that stopped just above the knee, capturing a vintage aesthetic through a playful and flirty lens.

Look 7 served texture; fur on jacquard. The black lipstick drew the eyes into focus on the exaggerated collar.

Look 8 and 9; there’s something that feels kind of dated about them. 18 is nice, but it feels influenced. The boot covers and shape of the dress are great.

Look 28 is the first pop of colour we get, the flower appliques are cool. Altogether, the look feels a little disjointed. Most of the vibrant looks weren’t impressive, as individual pieces they may work, but on the runway, the issues mostly stem from styling.

Look 39; a showstopper. The layered skirt portrayed graphic, while the shredded top brought the look back to earth with all the tendrils and fibres from the torn bits, while the studded shoes kept you on your toes. 

Pauglisi seems to know what he’s doing at Cavalli, which is refreshing when it feels like everyone else is finding their footing at different brands. 


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